Climbing Grades » climbing http://climbinggrades.com Everything You Want To Know About Climbing Grades Tue, 12 Jan 2010 00:41:55 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 An Introduction to the Art of Bouldering http://climbinggrades.com/an-introduction-to-the-art-of-bouldering http://climbinggrades.com/an-introduction-to-the-art-of-bouldering#comments Sat, 07 Nov 2009 16:40:28 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/an-introduction-to-the-art-of-bouldering Bouldering is a kind of rock climbing which involves relatively short climbing distances made without a rope and without any special climbing equipment. While people climbing the face of a boulder are generally only going up a few meters, the surfaces that they climb are chosen for being particularly difficult to scale. In the United Kingdom, the routes that people use to climb on boulder faces are usually called “problems”, because it takes some thought to solve the problem of how to get to the top.

Generally the only piece of safety equipment that one will use for climbing a boulder will be a large thick pad on the ground below. This is called a crash pad – in addition, when someone is climbing on a boulder they usually have people below them on the ground who can reposition the crash pad to catch the person in the event of a fall. Most boulder climbs are also in the range of three to five meters, making it very unlikely that a fall onto the pad will result in any kind of damage.

While it is possible to climb many boulder faces without any kind of equipment at all, most climbers make use of a few basic items, such as climbing shoes, sports tape, and loose chalk which is kept in a bag on one’s belt and used to get a better grip going up. Boulder climbers may also make use of a brush to help them clean the places where they need to get a grip. All in all, however, the gear used is minimal and the only piece of really essential equipment for bouldering is a crash pad for safety’s sake.

The most popular place in the world to travel for bouldering is Fontainebleau, to the south east of Paris, France. The Fontainebleau system and the John Sherman V-Grade system are the two systems for rating the difficulty of bouldering ascents. The sport of bouldering continues to develop, and more and more difficult climbs are being located all over the world, with the most difficult one on the John Sherman V-Grade system being the Wheel of Life in the Grampians of Australia. While bouldering was originally just seen as a training method for rock climbers during the Victorian era of mountain climbing, the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century began to see the related skill sets of rock climbing, ice climbing and bouldering split off from being thought of only as necessary parts of mountain climbing and were pursued more in their own right as sports with their own specific challenges and focuses.

If Fontainebleau is too far to go for bouldering, there are also great locations to engage in the sport in Texas, California, Georgia, Alabama, and many countries such as New Zealand and South Africa. An increasing number of gyms are also making boulder classes available, so even if you live in an urban area far from a suitable climbing location you should be able to start trying it out and see how you like bouldering!

]]> http://climbinggrades.com/an-introduction-to-the-art-of-bouldering/feed 0 Scrambling – What is it and Some Tips on How to Do It? http://climbinggrades.com/scrambling-what-is-it-and-some-tips-on-how-to-do-it http://climbinggrades.com/scrambling-what-is-it-and-some-tips-on-how-to-do-it#comments Sat, 07 Nov 2009 01:11:23 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/scrambling-what-is-it-and-some-tips-on-how-to-do-it It’s pretty much the Grey area where walking and climbing meet. Easy scrambles are little more than walks, hard ones are effectively easy climbs. If you want a simple definition, scrambling starts at the point where you need to start using your hands to make progress. Simple eh? One definition you sometimes hear is that scrambling is ‘climbing without ropes’. No, no, no…You won’t need a rope on most easy scrambles, but depending on how experienced and competent you are, on a lot of the stuff at the harder end of the spectrum and on easier conditions on easier, but exposed routes, some people will definitely want a rope. Why do it then? Often the best and most inspirational routes up a mountain are scrambles – narrow ridges, dank chimneys, blocky, interesting buttresses. Easy scrambling is a taste of climbing, but without needing the technical knowledge and equipment.GradesThere are a number of dedicated scrambling guides on the market which generally grade routes on a scale of 1 to 3 with an optional 3(S) to denote really serious stuff. Don’t get too hung up on grades and remember that they’re only a guide. Striding Edge on Helvellyn and Crib Goch on Snow-don are both classic grade ones, but the latter is much more exposed and potentially serious. Anyway, here’s our guide to what they mean:Grade 1 Don’t need any specialist mountaineering skills so technically easy and can usually be done without a rope. This doesn’t mean they’re not dangerous, but they’re the best starting point. In winter generally much more serious.Grade 2 More serious. You’ll need technical skills and probably a rope in anything other than ideal conditions – smaller holds and steeper ground are the norm. Not a good place for a novice.Grade 3 Like grade 2, but with pitches of proper rock climbing where you’ll need to know about technical rope work and how to protect yourself. Best done in dry conditions unless you’re a confident, experienced climber. If you’re a novice, don’t even think about these.The ScramblesAndalusia province has a wealth of untapped scrambling potential. We shall embark on some of the best there is! Instruction will be given where necessary in the basic use of rope and gear for protection and safety. Guests should have a good head for heights and have some experience of hillwalking in the UK or Europe. Scrambles of grades 1, 2, 3 and 3S will be undertaken.The scrambles include:River gorge followed by mixed rock to a high plateau.Long “alpine-type” ridge to a fine summit.Long easy limestone ridgeHigh altitude ridge (similar to Aonach Eagach in Scotland)You may also be interested in?Introduction to rope work for scramblers and beginner rock climbers or Alpine Introduction Courses

]]> http://climbinggrades.com/scrambling-what-is-it-and-some-tips-on-how-to-do-it/feed 0 A Quick Look At Rock Climbing http://climbinggrades.com/a-quick-look-at-rock-climbing http://climbinggrades.com/a-quick-look-at-rock-climbing#comments Sat, 31 Oct 2009 04:51:57 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/a-quick-look-at-rock-climbing Rock climbing is a sport, which involves climbing steep rocks. This sport originated in the nineteenth century in Saxony, Lake District of England. After Walter Parry Haskett Smith climbed Napes Needle alone for the first time, many people were attracted and it later converted to sports in England, in 1880s and by 1930s some two hundred climbing resorts opened in the Elbsandstein region. As the sport evolved grading system was introduced to analyze different levels of difficulties while climbing. Both the safety equipments and climbing techniques have been evolved with the passage of time.
A climber should be mentally and physically be strong to overcome difficulties and having extensive knowledge can make the task easier. Initially the climbers can learn in pairs, while one learns to climb the other can belay or feed the rope from either end of the rock structure. Incase the climber falls, the belayer can lock off the rope. When multiple climbers climb, the leader can connect a rope with carabiners or quickdraws as a protection measure. A more risky method, simul-climbing, involves the leader and the team members to move at the same time, giving less time to belay the rope.
There are many variations to the traditional rock climbing. They can be broadly classified into free climbing and aid climbing. Climbers do not use any kind of equipment in free climbing and in aid climbing; equipments are used to support the weight of the body against the rocks, which have less natural formation.
In lead climbing, the leader of the group of climber ties the rope to his body and starts to climb the rock structure first, followed by his other team members who have the same rope tied to their individual bodies. In traditional lead climbing, the leader places bolts into the rock to ascend and the followers use the same bolts. The cleaner is responsible to remove the bolts so that no trace is left of the path taken. If any of the climbers’ slips or falls, they will lower themselves on to the ground to start over again, instead on resting on the rope.
In sport lead climbing, bolts are already laid into the rocks so the leader doesn’t have to carry extra equipment with him. But in this case, there is a risk of bolts rusting as they are laid before hand, and if precaution isn’t taken it can be dangerous. If any of the climbers falls, he will rest on the rope and will try to climb again.
When a rope is suspended from an anchor, which is placed on the top of the rock structure, this technique of climbing is known as top rope climbing. This involves a solo climber who is belayed from either the top or the bottom of the hill.
Short climbs on tough boulders is known as bouldering. Some climbers use safety ropes, which are dropped above them and some, find bouldering mat more useful. In case a climber falls, spotting from the ground level by other climbers can break his fall.
Solo climbing involves a single climber who uses rope and protection devices to get to the top of the stone structure. Free solo climbing involves a single climber who uses nothing but natural features of the rock formation to ascend.
Since rock climbing has become more of a lifestyle now, indoor climbing has been on the rise. It is also a good way to get started. An environment is created indoor with the help of wood, plastic and fiberglass.
Rock climbing can be hazardous from environment point of view. Because bolts are driven into the rocks, this can be really harmful if done on a large scale. Other than this, soil erosion, garbage, human excretion, damage to native plants by introduction of foreign plant which grow from the seeds brought by clothing and shoes, etc. are other possible harmful effects. To reduce these effects, it is recommended to practice clean climbing.

]]> http://climbinggrades.com/a-quick-look-at-rock-climbing/feed 0 Rock Climbing http://climbinggrades.com/rock-climbing http://climbinggrades.com/rock-climbing#comments Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:44:58 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/rock-climbing Rock climbing, broadly speaking, is the act of ascending steep rock formations. Normally, climbers use gear and safety equipment specifically designed for the purpose. Strength, endurance, and mental control are required to cope with tough, dangerous physical challenges, and knowledge of climbing techniques and the use of essential pieces of gear and equipment are crucial.

History

Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right. As rock climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years, both climbing techniques, and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport, have evolved in a steady fashion.

History

Although the practice of Rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right. As rock climbing matured, grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years, both climbing techniques, and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport, have evolved in a steady fashion.

Protection: spring-loaded or static metal devices designed to be inserted into rock cracks or other irregular surfaces. Protection is placed as the climber ascends; the climber clips the rope into the protection. The protection works in tandem with the belayer to prevent the climber from hitting the ground in the event of a fall.

Belay:

Harness:

Overview:

Climbers usually work in pairs, with one climbing and the other belaying. In lead climbing, the belayer feeds rope to the lead climber through a belay device. The leader climbs up, occasionally placing protection or clipping preplaced bolted hangers, until the top is reached. The belayer is ready to “lock off” the rope if the leader falls.

Both climbers attach the rope to their climbing harness, usually tying into their harness with a figure-eight knot or double bowline knot. The leader either places protection or clips into permanent protection already attached to the rock. In traditional climbing, the protection is removable. Usually nuts or Spring-loaded camming device (often referred to as “cams” or “friends”) are set in cracks in the rock (although pitons are sometimes used). In sport climbing the protection is metal loops called hangers. Hangers are secured to the rock with either expanding masonry bolts taken from the construction industry, or by placing glue-in bolt systems. In ice climbing the protection is Ice Screw or similar devices hammered or screwed into the ice by the leader, and removed by the second climber.

The lead climber typically connects the rope to the protection with carabiners or quickdraws. If the lead climber falls, he will fall twice the length of the rope out from the last protection point, plus rope stretch (typically 5% to 8% of the rope out), plus slack. If any of the gear breaks or pulls out of the rock or if the belayer fails to lock off the belay device immediately, the fall will be significantly longer. Thus if a climber is 2 meters above the last protection he will fall 2 meters to the protection, 2 meters below the protection, plus slack and rope stretch, for a total fall of over 4 meters.

If the leader falls, the belayer arrests the rope. This is achieved by running the rope through a belay device attached to the belayer’s harness. The belay device runs the rope through a series of sharp curves that, when operated properly, greatly increase the friction and stop the rope from running. Some of the more popular types of belay devices are the ATC Belay Device, the Figure 8 and various auto-locking belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri

At the top of the pitch, the leader sets up a secure anchor system, also called a belay, from where he can belay as his partner climbs. The second climber removes the gear from the rock (traditional climbing) or removes the quickdraw from the bolted hanger (sport climbing). Both climbers are now at the top of the pitch with all their equipment. Note that the second is protected from above while climbing, but the leader is not, so being the leader is more challenging and dangerous. After completing their climb, with both climbers at the top of the pitch, they must eventually rappel or otherwise descend the climb in order to return to their starting point.

Occasionally, climbers may decide to “move together”, a risky but speedy technique also called simul-climbing, in which both leader and second move at the same time without stopping to belay. The leader – approximately a rope length above the second – usually places multiple pieces of protection as he climbs so that the weight of the second climber might arrest a possible leader’s fall. Should it be the second climber to fall, however, the leader may be pulled from his holds, with potentially unpleasant results.

]]> http://climbinggrades.com/rock-climbing/feed 0 Mountain Climbing in the Crimea, Ukraine – the Region Offers a Specacular Scenery and Opportunity for the Rock Climber http://climbinggrades.com/mountain-climbing-in-the-crimea-ukraine-the-region-offers-a-specacular-scenery-and-opportunity-for-the-rock-climber http://climbinggrades.com/mountain-climbing-in-the-crimea-ukraine-the-region-offers-a-specacular-scenery-and-opportunity-for-the-rock-climber#comments Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:44:55 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/mountain-climbing-in-the-crimea-ukraine-the-region-offers-a-specacular-scenery-and-opportunity-for-the-rock-climber Mountain climbing in Ukraine

In the Crimean peninsula, referred to as the Crimea, is a beautiful place in the summer months, the climate and the amount of sunny days makes this a perfect place for the climbers and nature lovers in general.

The Crimean peninsula occupies an area of around 26,000 sq.km.The nearest international airport is Kiev but a closer international airport is located in Simferopol. There are 30 curative lakes, 120 thermal medical springs, 10,000 historical and cultural monuments in the peninsula.

The Crimea (Krim) attracts mountain bikers, tourists, rock-climbers etc. 3 main ridges are found in the mountains of Crimea. The main one reaches a height of 1545 meters above sea level, the Internal, represented by separate rocky massifs which heights are ranging from 500 to 600 meters above the sea level, and the External with insignificant heights. The Southern coast is known for its mild climate. That is a narrow ground strip between the Main ridge and the Black sea.

There are at least 11 nice climbing sites with fully equipped routes grading from climbing grades 4 to 9a. The most popular sites are situated in the area of Great Yalta, from the Foros to Krasnokamenka. It is therefore convenient to stay in one of hotels in the city of Yalta and do one-day climbings at the various sites. Most of routes are about the climbing grade of 7a. The climate in Crimea allows climbing from April through October months.

Nikita (5 km. from Yalta) is one of the most popular mountain climbing site in Crimea. Thanks to Andrey Vedenmeyer who were the world champion in 1995 for his efforts making the routes in this site. There are about 80 routes grading from 5a to 9a (according to the American grades; 5.9 – 5.14). The majority of the routes are overhanging. Height of the site is 12-25 m. As it is a gorge, one can climb opposite cliffs all the day long. Some of the routes were made by climbers from France. Very often one can meet here World famous climbers in this site.

Nikita is situated nearby Yalta and the fabulous Nikitsky botanical gardens and it is near to the highway, so it is easy to access.

Red Stone (village Krasnokamenka). It takes 20-25 minutes by car to the east of Yalta to reach the climbing site. The nearest villages are Gurzuf and the cliff is situated in the village Krasnokamenka. There are about 100 routes grading from 5a-8c. Often these routes have prolonged problems. It is best to use a 60 meters rope on this site. Shops are rather well equipped and you can buy for every day utilities and food there. There is also a small street market here. Many world famous climbers make a trial in this site as well. The site has a nice scenic aspect as there is a lake at the east side of this rock. It is only 50 minutes walking from the Black sea to the site.

Simeyiz .This is a small resort village in about 15 km. from the city Yalta. There are 2 crags available for rock climbing here.

Koshka (Cat). The mountain limits the area of the village. There are bbout 30 routes grading from 5a-8a. Route height range from 13-27 meters. You will find slab at the beginning, overhangs (niches, cornices) in the above sections. Lots of juniper trees are found at the foot. A 4-pitch route with crux up to 6c+ leading on the top.

Krylo Lebedya (Swan’s wing). 5 minutes on foot from Koshka and you will find more than 30 routes grading from 6a-8a. Route height range from 20-30 meters. The cliff is on the beach. As there are three sectors differently directed, it is possible to climb almost all the day long.

Parus (near vill. Foros). The climbing site Parus is situated to the about 2 km west from Foros, which is around 50 km from Yalta, 15 minutes walking up from the highway going from Sevastopol to Yalta. The cliff looks like a “sail in the ocean of stones”. There are about 30 routes grading from 6b-7c. Near to Chelebi, that is a big wall site. There are some multi-pitch routes (4 pitches) leading to the top (crux up to grade 6c+). This is the real “place of the power”.

Bakhchisarai. There are about 100 bolted rock climbing routes grading from 5A up to 7C in 5 different sectors. And there are up to 20 routes in each sector within 15-25 minutes walking distance between them. Route height is ranging from 8 to 23 m. Lime rocks here are quite young, often overhanging, and resemble much of indoor climbing walls.

Because of the overhangs it is possible to climb even if it rains. The rocks here are not sharp, so it allows holding hands in good condition for other sites.

It is hot here in summer even in the shade at noon. That is why one climbs here in the morning or afternoon. Near to the site there are several shops, a small street market and cafes. One can taste here Tatars and Uzbek cuisine in one of the restaurants. Bakhchisarai is a town well known for its sightseeing: Khans’ Palace, Cave monastery and Cave town. So there is a chance to combine the climbing with some sightseeing as well.

Uarch-Kaya. This is a site, situated between Foros and Simeiz at about 2 km from the highway between Yalta and Sevastopol. The site is near the old road between Yalta and Sevastopol. The location is about 45 km. from Yalta. Uarch-Kaya is a site for rock climbing and multi-pitch climbing. All the routes are well equipped grading from 6a to 8c+. The total number of routes are more than 50.

Sudak. This site is situated in town of Sudak, just opposite the famous Genoese fortress. One can try about 15 routes grading from 6b to 7c. It is a very small site, actually just a crag. Because of rather dry climate in South-East part of Crimea in summer in the Sudak is very hot. Best time for climbing is from September to June.

The Southern coast of Crimean peninsula from cape Aiya, situated near the city called Sevastopol to moutain Ai-Petri raising behind the city of Yalta offers opportunities for multi-pitch climbing. There are also sites found between the cities Alushta and Yalta, and between the cities Simferopol and Alushta and near the city Sudak. Most of routes are not well equipped, so for the ascent one should bring all the gear needed for mountain climbing, such as friends, stoppers, wall nuts, and occationally some skyhooks and so on. There can be found some fully equipped multi-pitch routes with crux grading from 5a to 7b. They imply the use of quickdraws only. All the multi-pitch routes are in limestone.

Sites to visit would be Chelebi, Foros, Uarch-Kaya, Marcheka (El-Cap of Crimea), Shan-Kaya, Ai-Petri, Paragilmen, Angarka, and Sokol (Falcon).

]]> http://climbinggrades.com/mountain-climbing-in-the-crimea-ukraine-the-region-offers-a-specacular-scenery-and-opportunity-for-the-rock-climber/feed 0 Explore The Rating System About Climbing http://climbinggrades.com/explore-the-rating-system-about-climbing http://climbinggrades.com/explore-the-rating-system-about-climbing#comments Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:23:08 +0000 admin http://climbinggrades.com/explore-the-rating-system-about-climbing Climbers trying to scale a mountain need to know what its characteristics are and the level of difficulty involved for a successful climb. This is why mountains have a rating system for climbing. For beginner climbers and climb leaders, this is one of the most important technical information about mountain climbing that they should learn. The rating system is a widely accepted grading method that tells a climber the level of skill and stamina required to scale a particular mountain for free climbing. The system rating also varies from one country to another. There are several types of mountain climbing rating systems, including the Ewbank, UIAA, French and British and Irish. Ewbank Developed by John Ewbank, the Ewbank system was originally intended to provide a rating for the difficulty level of individual moves required for a climb. These days, other considerations are included, such as technical difficulty, strenuousness, exposure and protection levels. This is a system that is used in countries like South Africa, New Zealand and Australia. UIAA The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) is a rating system used for Austria and Western Germany. The French rating system is used in France, Italy and Spain. You probably might encounter this system for especially difficult climbs. British and Irish The British rating system uses the technical grading and the adjectival grading. The technical grading establishes the level of movement difficulties required for the climb and the adjectival grading rates the general difficulty level. It uses the same system as the French rating and grades are often prefixed with ‘F’. An adjectival rating system indicates the general difficulty assessment of a climb. Essentially, it consists of: M – Moderate D/Diff – Difficult VD/VDiff – Very Difficult HVD – Hard Very Difficult S – Severe HS – Hard Severe VS – Very Severe HVS – Hard Very Severe E1, E2, E3, E4, etc. – Extremely Very Severe. This is also an open-ended rating, although the latest climb with the hardest grade is at E11. A confirmed climb graded with the highest difficulty so far is E9. In case you’re wondering, ‘E’ for Easy is hardly used as an adjectival rating for mountain climbing. Also, if you looked in some guidebooks, you might find more detailed descriptions to rate a climb, such as ‘Mild Severe’ or ‘Mild Difficult’. These are used to include several factors that could vary such as conditions from the ground and on different elevations. The YDS The YDS or the Yosemite Decimal System was developed particularly for mountain climbing in the Sierra Nevada. It consists of the climbing grade, class and protection, although usage for the latter two varies. This is the rating system that is used in North America and often consists of two numbers. The first number indicates the class while the second indicates the level of difficulty. The grade indicates the approximate number of hours that a normal climb requires and is often used for mountaineering. This isn’t used for shorter rock climbs. Grade I – requires 1-2 hours Grade II – less than 1/2 day Grade III – one-half day Grade IV – one day climb Grade V – two days Grade VI – more than two days Grade VII – one week or more The YDS Class indicates the technical difficulty of a climb. Class 1 – indicates a mountain climb that is good for trail walking, with a small chance of sustaining a fall or injury that is fatal. Class 2 – indicates a mountain that is possibly steep and requires some scrambling, especially off-trail. A Class 2 climb can mean that a climber will need to use his hands or a tool like an ice axe for balance or to pull himself up. This class also indicates a greater chance of sustaining a severe injury, although it’s still not considered fatal. Class 3 – means that the mountain climb will require hand and foot holds and tools such as crampons and ice axes. The use of ropes may also be indicated. Class 4 – requires ropes and anchored belays. Otherwise, falls could prove fatal to the climber. Class 5 – not only requires ropes and anchored belays but also protection points, spread intermittently throughout the climb. This can also indicate increasing difficulty as the climb progresses. Class 5 also indicates rock climbing on a nearly vertical or vertical rock. The protection rating used by the YDS is often optional, but it is quite useful when trying to determine the requirement for protection quality and spacing during a climb. G – stands for Good, indicating solid protection. PG – is Pretty Good, with a few sections where placements are either non-existent or poor at best. R – is Runout, meaning some placements are spaced far apart X -means no protection and that the climb is very dangerous Some guidebooks list a rating system for a climb in extremely detailed figures, such as 4.5, 5.2 or 5.6 that’s why climbers need to study the rating systems used in a particular area to familiarize themselves. It is also important to note that improvements in climbing gear and equipment and increase in climbing standards also meant that a climb rated with a high level of difficulty may currently be recognized as a moderate climb. These are some slight changes that mountain climbers should be aware of. For successful and safe mountain climbing, it is absolutely necessary to familiarize yourself with the rating system used. Wherever you are in the world, you will know what to expect and be prepared for your climb.

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